Sunday, 2 May 2010

Close shave with lions!

Monday 29th March 2010

After the assassination of Manie in the kitchen at the hands of Ana with a wooden spoon we set out on a Blade focus. We pooled together the cars and the telemetry equipment and had much more success. We had a brief spotting of the cheetahs in dense scrub and then came across a group of rather curious giraffes:



We found the lion pride with Blade and Marmite both with them. They had made a kill and the males were eating as one of the lionesses sat panting from the exertion of the hunt and then licking her paws:







They allowed us to drive very close to them. At one point a lioness approached us from behind to join the others to eat:





We also got good views of Blade resting with a full belly:





A slightly daunting but fascinating and awesome sight.

There is another side plot to this pride. A female left to have a cub several weeks ago and is yet to return. It is hoped that a reunion will occur while we are here so that we can see them both and find out how the cub is accepted. It is unclear what Thika's status and location is, although she is radio tagged. The staff believe that Thika is being patient and will introduce the cub to the pride when she feels ready to. We shall wait and see.

After a relaxing break in the afternoon we went on a night time Blade focus after dinner and found the lions in the same place as this morning, presumably with the same kill. It was an experience I will never forget.

On our way to them we caught site of a rarity, a white rhino. I felt extremely lucky to see one and certainly didn't expect to. In the darkness it was very difficult to get pictures, as we intermittently aimed the floodlight at it. My best picture is this one showing the rhino's outline:



John was driving our vehicle and when we got to the pride (without guns) he was happy to bumble right in amongst the lionesses who were bold and comfortable with our presence. We were literally metres away and at first things were going well.

Then the other vehicle, which had been unreliable all day, failed to start up. We positioned our vehicle between the lions and the stopped car when Manie proceeded to get out of his car and get under the bonnet to spin the cam belt while the key was being turned. It fired up and Manie crept back in and drove home. My intuition told me that we should have done the same...but we didn't. You get the idea about the lax attitude to health and safety here!

We continued to bumble around and twice a lioness walked a few metres to my left, one time stopping to look at me while I held my breath and heard her breathing before she walked on. One lioness also walked behind the car as we were moving away. Imagine the scene, pitch darkness with the sound of the males who were contentedly roaring and the sound of bones being crunched as the males fed on the carcass out of site while the lionesses sit next to us:







Here is a bad picture of Blade. This doesn't do justice to his size. He is a massive cat:



When two lionesses lied down in front and to the side of our vehicle I was ready to go home:



When we finally left, we drove away but instead of leaving by the easiest route, we appeared to be driving into the area of bush where the carcass was. As we drove through a gap in the vegetation a lioness began to follow us at a distance of only feet. Although she wasn't aggressive she sped up and slowed down as we did. As we picked up pace she quite purposefully started to run after us, eventually becoming lazy and losing interest. It was the most unnerving experience with a wild animal I have ever had.

When we got back to base John, who stayed calm throughout, assured us of the normality of the lionesses' behaviour. At night they become more confident and are very used to these vehicles and they curiously chase them at times. I continued to think that we were too close, parked quite literally within the pride and I was relieved to get to bed!

Another 'find all' and cheetah spotting finally!

Sunday 28th March 2010

Sunday is the second 'find all' day. On our way out of the base a black mamba slithered across our path. Perhaps in South Africa this is an omen like a black cat crossing your path because we were unable to find anything all morning. Instead I will tell you more about our lions:

When we viewed the pride a couple of evenings ago we found Marmite with his mother, among other lionesses. The Dominant male, Blade, was absent and it is common for the leader of the pride to wander his territory. Some of the expedition members say they heard a lion roar in the night and it is thought that Blade is now communicating to the pride with the aim to meet up again.This however will cause problems as Marmite is reaching sexual maturity and may pose a threat to Blade's dominance, even though Blade is his father. It is expected that Blade will soon evict Marmite from the pride and Marmite will need to find himself his own pride elsewhere. Alternatively, Marmite may fight Blade for control of the pride here in Venetia.

At lunchtime we rested at a different research accommodation and had lunch before continuing with the 'find all' in the afternoon. It seemed to be going the same way as the morning until about 5pm when we spotted Skankank and his brother, the two cheetahs in a coalition. We watched them rest, walk away and then rest again. They were the most beautiful cats and quite wary of us. Cheetahs have their enemies, often being hounded from their food by hyenas or being shot by farmers when on their land.

Here are some pictures of the cheetahs:









Finally the cheetahs walked away through the grass:





This partiucular shot shows one of the cheetahs scent-marking a tree:



When they had left we visited the tree. It smells a bit fishy if you were wondering!

On our way back we were joined in our vehicle by a mantis which I can only describe as monstrous:



In the evening we set up a game called Assassin. You randomly pick a victim, a murder weapon and a location in which you have to 'kill' them. The aim is to trick your victim in to the location where you then touch them with the murder weapon. I have to 'kill' Ashley in the gym area with a dinner plate. For information the gym is just an outdoor area with bricks and tyres where you can lift these unorthodox weights.

Musina

Saturday 27th March 2010

On Saturday a group of us left the base and travelled at 7:30 (a relative lie in!) to Musina to pick up the week's shopping. We bought the necessities in a Shoprite store, but interestingly most of us also spent some money on junk food and chocolate.

Musina has a mall which is new, much like the one at Polokwane, but outside of this the town is hustling and dusty. Musina is filled with Zimbabweans who travel in across the border for supplies and kitchen appliances such as cookers and fridges from the numerous appliance and furniture stores before heading back home where the shops lie empty. The town is therefore a hive of activity:







With any busy South African town, beggars can be expected. On our way back to the van with the shopping a man insisted on pushing our trolley and helping to load the van. Afterwards he asked for payment by kneeling, holding out his hands and bowing his head. We also saw a blind woman begging with a can which she shook incessantly and sounded like it had a single coin in. From the van we talked about the benefits this woman might receive in the UK. Here, nothing. Giving her money would be likely to increase her chance of being robbed and I decided not to photograph her.

We headed to a nearby Spur steak house(feeling rich and guilty) and watched a rugby match with Manie who is a Bulls fan. After my time with fanatical Stormers fans, it's good to get a new perspective! The steak house seemed incongruous in Musina, and indeed it was patronised by white South Africans and tourists who have the money.

It was another thought-provoking day. We returned to camp for spaghetti. On our way home we stopped at the swimming pool by the park owners house. I sat and dipped my feet, only discovering that I had been sitting on chlorine pellets when I stood up and my shorts had been bleached white!

Base duty and first lion spotting

Friday 26th March 2010

On Friday myself and Ana stayed in camp in the morning as it was our turn for base duty. We swept leaves to keep the base tidy and prepared lunch and dinner. Once the preparation was done we were able to go out with the others in the afternoon. We climbed Repeater Ridge again where Manie had previously caught me. Here are some of us at the top. Left to right is Richard, Gary, Me, Lina, Manie and John:



We were shown Khoi-San paintings on the rocks. They are approximately 1000 years old and were created using ochre as paint:







On our travels we spotted two males giraffes. The darker of the two was the dominant male and is darker due to greater amounts of testosterone. In a display of his dominance he was mounting the other male...very strange:





We got wind from Wendy that the lions were in a certain area so we went to them and got our first glimpse of some of the pride, Marmite and his mum Pikanin. Like the elephants, they are wonderful to see in the wild:





We got back late as a result. Kindly, Sophia and Toni had finished cooking dinner for us, but it all got stuck to the bottom of the pan and burned as a consequence. The flavour of the food was somewhat charred and some people didn't eat it, oh dear! Following the removal of a dangerous scorpion by Manie from the dining room area, we all nervously went to bed.

Birdwatching and feeding the dogs

Thursday 25th March 2010

This morning we drove to a dam wall to watch a lake which we already know to contain hippos and crocs, but today we went birdwatching. We left very early and it was well worth it when the sun began to rise over the lake:



Although some of the guys here are more interested in the bigger mammals, I really enjoyed it and we spotted some 60 species including giant heron, francolins, little bee-eaters and giant kingfishers. Here is the little bee-eater:



In the afternoon we failed to find the cheetahs. It is becoming frustrating as the telemetry equipment doesn't seem to work unless you're at a very close range, making it impossible to hone in on an individual animal. Instead we found our own sights such as this huge termite mound:



And these wildebeest across another lake:



In the middle of the day we had a lecture from Manie on spiders, snakes and scorpions. This forms part of a series of lectures during the first week. Manie's talk was thought-provoking. There are several very dangerous species here and we're a long way from any help.

In the afternoon we went to feed the wild dogs and chatted to a lady called Wendy who is overseeing the wild dog project. One of the problems facing these dogs is that they are not cooperatively feeding, that is where two or more dogs feed from prey by pulling at opposite directions much like a tug-of-war. If they don't learn this technique, their survival in the wild will be difficult. I was able to take some pictures in the fading light which demonstrates this problem:





After dinner Richard, Gary and I played cards. It wasn't long before we noticed that it was dark, we were being noisy and we were lit up to all animals that may be nearby. We therefore quickly retired to bed!

Happy Campers

I have mentioned some of the staff members at GVI. There are two others; Sophia from France and Toni who is an English intern here. There are 11 expedition members including myself. Everyone is friendly and there is already a sense of community among us in the face of adversity! We have several British members; Gary from Stoke, Richard and Carina who are a couple from Winchester, Ana from Lewes, Trish from Glasgow and Michelle from York.

Elizabeth and Ashley are both from Texas and know each other from home, Faagun is from India and Lina is a larger than life Hawaiian! Literally everyone is easy to get on with and the atmosphere is really enjoyable.

Find all day - Manie saves me

Wednesday 24th March 2010

Wednesdays are the 'find all' days. Each Wednesday the GVI team must find every radio tagged animal in the reserve, cheetahs, the lions and an elephant named Pam. Our guide today was Manie, who arrived earlier in the week. Manie is 6 feet 6 and a cavalier version of John.

Unfortunately we didn't find any of the cats or Pam. The radio trackers are difficult to use and don't give accurate readings as they may be faulty according to the staff. We spent 11 hours out on the reserve and couldn't track anything. Blade, the alpha male lion, was particularly difficult to pick up. We did see giraffes and other elephants, but they weren't our focus. Manie drives quite excitedly and is happy to plough through trees, a stark difference from John who is a self-confessed 'gentle bumbler'.

We climbed repeater ridge again to facilitate signal pick up, this time Manie took us a more difficult route which required some climbing to save time. On our way back we had to climb down a vertical rock surface. I lost my footing and began to slide down the rocks when Manie quite literally grabbed me and stopped me from falling any further. Below me was a rock which I would have landed on feet first and then possibly fallen further after losing my balance. Since the incident I see Manie with a sort of aura around him as he saved me!

In the evening we went on a 'night time bumble' with John and saw impala, which are very common here...as are rabbits.